This, perhaps aggressively verdant, plate of saucy, spring-y goodness is inspired by a NYT Cooking recipe, which in turn is inspired by the River Cafe in London. The variation: the green. Where the River Cafe used nettles, the NYT used spinach, and I used wild garlic or, would I have been in the US, ramps. In all cases, the aim is for a vegetal, fresh, slightly bitter leaf which imparts strong flavor but wilts easily and blends into a silky sauce. The theme: taleggio risotto. So creamy, so starchy, so cheesy, so earthy and so entirely beige. Until! A shock of green, stirred in just at the end, transformed into a somewhat surprising, entirely satisfying, nourishing meal. Celery is also included in the recipe, which adds a nice bite and completes what is not an unimpressive fiber profile.

Recipe

Serves 6

• 8 oz taleggio, chilled

• 200g wild garlic, stems removed

• 200g spinach leaves

• 50g butter

• 1 medium red onion or large shallot, finely diced

• 3 cups finely diced celery

• 1.5 cups arborio rice

• 1 tsp salt

• 3/4 cup white wine

• 3.5 cups vegetable or chicken stock

1. Cut off the rind of the taleggio and dice into small (.5 inch) cubes. Set aside.

2. Wilt the spinach and wild garlic. If you have a kettle, this is easily done by putting the leaves in a large bowl and pouring over a full kettle of boiling water, stirring around for a moment all the leaves are wilted, and draining. If not, bring a large pot of water to boil, then similarly add the leaves, stir for a moment, and drain. In either case, drain into a colander and rinse with cold water, then plop into a clean dish cloth and squeeze to wring out excess water. You do not have to go overboard on this though, as plenty of liquid will be added back in later on in the recipe.

3. Transfer the wilted and squeezed leaves into a food processor with 1 Tbsp of butter and puree until smooth. Set aside.

4. Melt the remaining butter in a large skillet or pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook until translucent and soft, about 7 minutes, Stir in the rice (DO NOT RINSE) and salt and toast until golden, about 5 minutes.

5. Stir in the wine, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan, and cook for a few minutes until absorbed. Then, for the infamous part of risotto-making, stir in the stock, about a 1/2 cup at a time, until the rice is cooked through. This can take as little as 15 minutes and as many as 30. It will feel like longer. You do not have to stir the whole time or wait until the stock is completely absorbed between each addition – mostly is enough for both endeavor.

6. Stir through the spinach puree, then the taleggio until totally melted in. Taste for salt and adjust as needed. Serve warm and enjoy!
   
   

Breakfast of Punctilious Champions, this fry-up is well worth the extra effort. Grated potato and parsnip are fried to create a crispy base, topped with a still-runny poached egg and punchy greek yogurt sauce, and blanketed with strips of smoked salmon. Finished with a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle of dill, this plate achieves an aspirational balance of fatty and fresh.

Rösti is a traditional Swiss potato pancake. This recipe takes a fast-and-dirty approach (no par boiling required), made dirtier by the inclusion of parsnip, so makes no promises whatsoever of traditional accuracy. It does, however, make explicit promises of a good time. The involvement of parsnip, perhaps the least popular in the already unpopular food category of root vegetables, is warranted by the peppery flavor and nutritional benefits it adds to the potato. Like frog and toad, these two earthy companions are better together.

Recipe

Serves 2

Special equipment: Box grater or other grater with large holes

• 200 g potato, peeled (about 1 very large, 2 medium, 3 baby)

• 200 g parsnip, peeled (1 large)

• 1 tsp plain flour

• 2 Tbsp oil

  • Note: vegetable oil, or ghee/clarified butter is best for frying, but olive oil can be used if need be (as need was for me)

• 1/3 cup greek yogurt

• 1 garlic clove (optional)

• Juice of 1/2 lemon

• 2 Tbsp finely chopped dill (or parsley) , plus extra for serving

• 2 eggs

• Smoked salmon, as much as you please

1. Grate the potato and parsnip over a clean kitchen cloth.

2. Wrap the grated vegetables tightly in the cloth and squeeze over the sink – really go in on this, the more liquid extracted the better.

3. Add the drained vegetables to a bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix with the flour.

4. In a wide, shallow pan heat the the oil over medium heat until very hot – the oil should become shimmery and and move fluidly around the pan like water.

5. Dollop the potato mixture into four pancakes and flatten out into thin discs. This can be done in multiple rounds if your pan is not big enough, just add more oil in between as needed. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until deep golden brown, then flip and repeat on the other side. Remove to cool on a paper-towel lined plate.

6. Mix together the greek yogurt, lemon juice, chopped dill and salt in a small bowl. Grate in the garlic clove, if using, and mix.

7. When ready to serve, plate 2 röstis per person.

8. Bring a small pot of water to boil, then reduce to a simmer. Stir the water in a circle to create a “whirlpool,” then carefully crack one egg into the pot. Cook for 3 - 4 minutes, until the white is opaque (add 1-2 minutes if you don’t like runny yolk). Remove with a slotted spoon, blot off the water from the bottom, and place on top of the rosti on one of the plates. Repeat with the other egg.

   1. Note: For the perfectionists among us, there are many tips and tricks for poaching eggs. Some popular options for optimization include adding white vinegar to the water or cracking the egg into a fine mesh sieve before poaching.

9. Add a dollop of yogurt sauce to each plate, then top with smoked salmon, dill, and another squeeze of lemon. Enjoy!

This week, my plate was full of bright, zingy flavors that celebrate the freshness of Spring. Parsley, lemon, white wine, garlic and shallot featured prominently, as did acidic ingredients like capers, olives, red wine vinegar, and mustard. With three slightly more elevated protein options (halibut, crab, and steak), this is not the cheapest plan of the week, but it is one of the most satisfying. As usual, please note that staple ingredients like olive oil, butter, salt and pepper are not noted on the plate, but will likely be required in the cooking process.

The Recipes

Steak with Green Sauce

The inspiration for this meal came from an instagram post by (@dinnerbyben). The foundation of the dish is a simple steak, with some veg on the side (seared cabbage pictured above, salad greens served on the second outing). What really enticed me about Ben’s post was the sauce, but despite some tantalizing cinematic detail he provides no precise instructional guidance. I improvised with the following:

Serves 2 (people/steaks)

• 2 Tbsp butter

• 1 shallot, finely chopped

• Juice of 1/2 a lemon

• 1/2 cup fresh herbs and soft stems (I used primarily parsley with a bit of basil, but you could also add cilantro)

• 2 tsp mustard

• 1.5 tsp capers

• 2 anchovy filets

• Splash of red wine vinegar

• Pinch of salt and pepper

• Pinch of red chili flakes

• 2 Tbsp olive oil

1. Melt the butter in a small sauce pan with the shallots over medium to medium high heat. Cook until they are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Once the shallots have cooled slightly add to the jar of a blender with the rest of the ingredients. Blitz until smooth.

3. Taste and adjust (other than the cooked butter and shallots all of the ingredients’ amounts can be easily refined to taste – I would just advise to do so gradually)

Halibut with Salsa Verde

This is a version of fish en papillote, a method of preparation which involves sealing the fish in parchment parchment, often along with some vegetables and a bit of white wine. The result is tender, flaky, and deeply flavorful. This particular recipe, linked here, comes from Lindsey of the blog Lindsey Eats. It has been an absolute favorite of mine for a while, thanks especially to the green olive salsa verde. This time around, I added some zucchini to cook along with the fish and orange slices, which overall worked well other than a few slices which were a bit firmer than desired.

A word of warning. This recipe is absolutely packed with bright, deliciously briny flavor. Along with all that flavor, however, comes some smell, some ~ fragrance ~ shall we say, that should be handled with attention. There is garlic in here, for one instance. There is green onion, for another. There is fish. Do not eat this before a first date. Do not eat this before a game of telephone. And definitely do not, as I did, pack this for lunch in a leaky tupperware container and spend the next few months smelling halibut whenever you open your bag.

Crab and Chili Spaghetti

The recipe for this classic pasta dish was posted by Georgia May Salamat on instagram (@georgiamaysalamat). She used linguine, but I only had spaghetti, so spaghetti is what appears here. If you don’t have instagram, a similar recipe is posted on an old blog of her’s, linked here. If you make this version, just leave out the cilantro (aka coriander) and cream. Both versions include cherry tomatoes, which I left out.

Fish meunière is a simple dish of pan-fried white fish, served with a lemon butter sauce and fresh parsley. It is popularly made with sole, but our local grocery store’s seafood counter was out of sole “until December,” so I used halibut. Flounder, or another flat fish, would also work well. The fish is dredged in flour before frying. A trick I learned from my Mom is to use almond flour for a subtle nutty flavor, which works especially deliciously here in combination with the butter and lemon.

The preparation of the asparagus and new potatoes is very simple, allowing these seasonal vegetables to shine. The asparagus is quickly baked at very high heat, a method which results in melt-in-your-mouth tenderness on the inside, and a light, flavorful burnishing on the outside.

Not much more to say, really – go forth and live your best fresh, vegetal, and vaguely French (?) life!

Recipe

For the Fish

Serves 4

• 4 white fish filets, 6 oz per person

• 1/2 cup almond flour

• 2-5 Tbsp butter

• Salt and pepper

• Parsley, finely chopped

• Juice of 1 lemon, plus more for serving

1. Turn the almond flour out onto a large, flat plate. Season with salt and pepper and spread out in a thin, even layer.

2. Pat the fish filets dry with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper.

3. Melt 2 Tbsp butter in large skillet or frying pan over medium high heat until bubbling.

4. Dredge the filets one by one in the almond flour, coating each side then shaking off any excess.

5. Lay the filets in a single layer in the frying pan and cook for 2-4 minutes on each side, depending on thickness. Once cooked the fish should be flaky and tender, but opaque throughout.

6. Transfer to a serving plate and sprinkle over with a squeeze of lemon and chopped parsley. Serve with additional lemon wedges.

7. Optional brown butter pan sauce: Wipe out the skillet and melt the additional 3 Tbsp of butter over medium high heat. Cook, swirling the pan until it foams up and smells toasted and nutty. The foaming should subside slightly and you will see browned butter solids forming at the bottom of the pan. Immediately spoon the hot butter over the plated fish, and serve.

For the Potatoes

Serves 4

• 1 lb new or baby potatoes

• 2 Tbsp butter

• 1 clove garlic, grated

• juice of 1/2 a lemon

• 1/3 cup mint, finely chopped

• Salt and Pepper

1. Wash the potatoes and place in a medium pot with cold water filled to about an inch above the potatoes. Salt the water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook the potatoes for 10 - 15 minutes, depending on size, or until completely tender.

2. Drain the potatoes and return the pot to the stove over medium heat. Melt 2 Tbsp butter, then add the grated clove of garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until fragrant, about 30 second to a minute.

3. Add back in the potatoes, squeeze over with lemon juice, and toss, evenly coating the potatoes in butter. Mix in the chopped mint, and serve.

For the Asparagus

Serves 4

• 2 bunches of asparagus, woody ends snapped off

• 1 clove garlic, grated

• Zest and juice of 1 lemon

• Olive oil (extra virg, obvs)

• Salt and Pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 425F/220C

2. Spread the asparagus out on a sheet pan and toss in olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 15 minutes.

3. Remove the asparagus from the oven and immediately mix in the grated garlic. Just after the garlic, toss in the the lemon zest and juice. Plate and enjoy!

These (perfect, succulent, decadent) little desserts came from a desire for a sticky toffee pudding (STP), alongside a disinterest in making an entire cake. STP is one of those desserts that I usually only have in restaurants, in a restaurant-specific serving size that I lack the ramekin collection to recreate. Even if I did have the right ramekin, I would be unlikely to have enough of them to use up a full batch of batter (we are talking about 6+ ramekins). I could instead bake the batter in one big batch, like a brownie, but then I have the problem of 1) possibly eating it all in one go, 2) that risk averted, having to wrap up all the extra free-cut portions, and then 3) having to clean said brownie pan.

So, after contemplating how best to deliver myself this sweet little treat, I realized I could solve all three of these problems by using…a cupcake tray. This simple but exceedingly ingenious innovation would deliver conveniently portioned servings, which, with the use of paper liners, would be pre-packaged for storage and require little clean up. Edison, Eggleston, same difference.

Now, as to why these pudds make the perfect meal prep, as well as the case for prepping your pudd. Dessert is often neglected in meal prep, too often passed over in the enthusiastic roasting of vegetables or boiling of grains. I think this has to do with the common connection between meal prep and healthy eating. But dessert can be part of a healthy lifestyle too, and can benefit just as much as any other meal from advanced planning and preparation. To deny the role of dessert in our lives, as we may be tempted to do when setting out our nutritional aspirations for the coming week, is to deny ourselves the opportunity for everyday sublimity. If we do not holistically consider the interests of our future selves, then when the hankering for something sweet does come, our anticipatory asceticism will have left us unprepared, and dependent on a quick fix, which will inevitably be less delicious than what could have been.

Instead, solve your time-inconsistency dilemma with the single-serve STP cupcake, made up of three prep-able parts. Firstly, the puddings themselves, which can be sealed in an airtight container and stored in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for up to three months. Secondly, the caramel sauce, which can last in the fridge for two weeks if homemade, or longer if store-bought. Thirdly, vanilla ice cream, which will happily hang out in your freezer for few months, and is likely already doing so. To assemble, simply warm up a pudding and some caramel sauce in the oven or microwave, then top with a spoonful of ice cream.

The recipe comes from Nick Curtola of the Four Horsemen (@nickcurtola on intagram), with some slight changes to the ingredients and procedure to accommodate cupcake-ification.

Recipe

Serves 6

For the Puddings

• 1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened

• 1 1/4 cup granulated sugar

• 3 eggs

• 1 cup plus 3 Tbsp flour

• 1/4 tsp cinnamon

• 1/4 tsp ginger

• 1/2 baking powder

• Pinch of salt

• 2 cups pitted dates

• 3/4 tsp baking soda
  

For the Caramel Sauce:

• 1/2 Cup unsalted butter

• 1 cup dark brown sugar

• 2/3 cup cream

• Pinch of salt

• 2 tsp lemon juice

• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract

1. Pre-heat the oven the oven to 350 F/170 C. Line a cupcake tray with six paper liners, keeping a few on hand in case there’s extra batter.

2. To make the batter, mix the butter and granulated sugar together in the bowl of a stand mixer or in large bowl with a handheld mixer on medium speed until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix until incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the dry ingredients (except the baking soda), and mix in by hand until incorporated.

3. In a small pot, bring 1 cup of water to boil with the dates. Simmer for about 5 minutes, mashing well as they cook. Set aside to cool, the mix into the batter mixture.

4. Fill the cupcake liners with batter, leaving a bit of room at the top. Bake for 25 minutes, until golden and slightly crispy at the edges.

5. To make the sauce, add the butter and brown sugar to a small pan and stir over medium heat until melted and bubbling. Stir in the cream, salt, lemon juice, and vanilla extract and cook for about 5 minutes, or until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon without sliding off.

6. To serve, warm the pudding and caramel sauce. Remove the liner, and set the pudding upside down on a plate. Top with vanilla ice cream, and pour over a spoonful or two of caramel. Enjoy!

For Christmas dinner, I often make Julia Child’s lobster bisque. It is deeply flavorful, perfectly balanced, and utterly satisfying. A dream and a joy, it is probably my favorite thing to eat. It is also, without fail, a complete pain in the a** to make.

Some time ago, looking to have all the fun without half of the work, I tried Melissa Clark’s Rustic Shrimp Bisque as an alternative. That recipe is much, much easier than Julia's, and results in a thicker, more comforting bisque with slightly lighter flavors. While the new version was delicious, I missed the indulgence, and complexity of the former, so, went looking for a middle ground.

The result is the following, which incorporates many of Julia’s ingredients and techniques within Melissa’s more streamlined procedure. This bisque is strained, for example, for a more delicate texture, but does not include homemade lobster butter – the making of which usually threatens the integrity of my blender and at least one of my thumbs.

Recipe

Serves 4 - 5

• 1 lb raw shrimp, shell-on

• 6 Tbsp butter

• 3 Tbsp cognac or brandy

• 2/3 cup dry white wine

• 2 Tbsp fresh tarragon or 1 Tbsp dried

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 garlic clove, smashed

• 1 fennel bulb or 2 celery ribs, chopped

• 1 shallot, chopped

• 1 large carrot, chopped

• 1/4 cup white rice

• 3 cups fish stock or clam juice, plus more as needed

• 2 cups beef stock

• 1 (14 oz) can of peeled tomatoes

• Pinch of cayenne pepper

• 1/4 cup heavy cream

1. Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. Set the meat aside.

2. Melt 1 Tbsp butter in a large pot over high heat. Add the shells and cook for 2 - 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the shells are opaque and beginning to brown in places.

3. Lower the heat, and pour on 2 Tbsp of cognac. Ignite by shaking vigorously, tilting towards the flame if you use a gas stove, or (most realistically) with a match.When the flames have died down, add the wine and boil until mostly evaporated. Add the fish and beef stock, tarragon, bay leaf, and garlic. Simmer, uncovered, for 15 - 20 minutes. Strain into a large bowl, discarding the shells.

4. Back in the same pot, melt 2 Tbsp of butter over medium-high heat. Stir in the shrimp meat and sprinkle with a bit of salt and pepper. Cook until just pink, about 2 -3 minutes depending on their size. Pour over 1 Tbsp cognac and cook for a moment or two more until the liquid is evaporated. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl.

5. On a large cutting board pour out the canned tomatoes and chop. Keep the chopped tomatoes and their juices ready for use in the next step.

6. Melt 3 Tbsp of butter in the same pot over medium heat. Add the fennel, shallot, and carrot and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice, tomato, and cayenne and sauté for a few minutes. Add the shrimp stock and simmer, covered, until the rice is cooked, about 20 minutes.

7. Add the shrimp to the pot and cook for a few minutes to warm though, then turn off the heat.

8. To blend the bisque, either use an immersion blender or transfer in batches to a blender jar. Puree until very smooth, adding more fish stock (or water) as needed.

9. Set a fine mesh sieve over the pot. Strain the bisque through the sieve back into the pot, scraping with a wooden spoon or spatula to extract all the liquid.

10. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper. To finish, stir in the heavy cream, and enjoy!

Do you too dream of escaping to the sunny shores of the Mediterranean? Do you too dream of a packable, flavorful lunch that doesn’t wilt into a greying goop of banality after 3 days in the fridge? Make this salad, and make both these dreams come true ✨

The concept for this salad began with tabbouleh, a fresh, herby mix to which I like to add quinoa, tomato, and cucumber. To make this mezze a meal, I added spiced lamb, the deep, earthly flavors of which are a natural complement to tabbouleh. Where there is a deep and earthy, there follows bright and tangy, in this case taking the form of pomegranate seeds. Finally, halloumi was added for a salty, satisfying chew. It could be left out, though, if you’re looking for a healthier version.

Recipe

Serves 4

For the Lamb

• 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

• 1 tsp fennel seeds

• 1 tsp cumin seeds

• 1 tsp salt

• 1/4 tsp black pepper

• 1 lb lamb chops

• 2 Tsp olive oil

For the Salad

• 225 g (or 8 oz) halloumi, in 1/4 inch cubes

• 1/4 cup quinoa

• 1/2 cup chopped mint, finely chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped parsley, finely chopped

• 1/2 pint (or 300 g or 8 oz) cherry tomatoes, halved

• 1 cucumber, finely diced

• 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds

• Juice of 2 lemons

• 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp olive oil

• 1 garlic clove, grated

1. Combine red pepper, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds in a skillet and toast over low heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. If you have one, add the spices to a mortar and pestle with the salt and and pepper and pound briefly to break up the seeds. If you do not have a pestle, pour out the spices onto a cutting board and chop briefly, then mix with the salt and pepper.

2. Rub the spice mixture over the lamb and leave to sit out for 30 minutes at room temperature, or in the fridge for up to 24 hours.

3. Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Lay the chops in the pan and sear for 3-4 minutes until deeply browned, then flip and cook for another 3-4 minutes on the other side. Remove and leave to cool.

4. Once cooled, chop the lamb into bite size pieces.

5. Rinse the quinoa and add to a pot with plenty of water. Bring to a boil and cook until the seeds have opened and become tender, around 15 minutes. Drain in a fine mesh sieve and rinse under cold water.

6. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Pat the cubed halloumi dry and add to the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on each side.

7. Whisk 1/4 cup olive oil, lemon juice, grated garlic clove, and a pinch of salt together in a large bowl. Add cooked quinoa and chopped herbs and mix in the dressing. Toss in the cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, pomegranate, halloumi, and lamb.

Enjoy!

We all have a dish that we fall back on, come lunch or dinner, when energy levels are low and fridge stocks are lower. This is mine, and what a happy fall it always is.

This pasta stands out from its plentiful pantry-pasta brethren because of its flavor and adaptability. It essentially includes some kind of allium, tomato, and tinned fish, combined into briny, bright, unfailingly satisfying sauce. I call it ‘Anyway-You-Want-It’, because from this basic formulation follow countless iterations to match whatever mood, without requiring a trip to the grocery store.

The way I usually want it, as recorded in the recipe below, uses (a lot of) shallot and garlic, both tomato paste and canned tomatoes, and tuna. You, however, could use just shallot, just garlic, onion, or any combination thereof. If you prefer a deeper flavor, or a less chunky sauce, you could omit the the canned tomatoes. And depending on your preference and supplies, you could use sardines instead of tuna, or omit the anchovy.

One of the first versions of this pasta I had was one of simplest, and most delicious. It was introduced to me by my friend Alessandra, who used just a whole clove of garlic, later removed from the sauce, canned tomato, and tuna. When I tried to recreate it, however, I found that the store-brand canned tuna I used completely depreciated the flavor from her version, which included fresh, buttery fillets from Italy. In my case, the addition of anchovies helped to bring back some of the palatal nuance lost in the aisles of a British supermarket. Other flavor boosters that you could add include capers or olives, especially castelvetrano.

A final tip is that the sauce can be scaled and stored in the fridge on its own for 3 - 5 days, then added at the time of eating to freshly cooked pasta.

Recipe

Serves 2

• 2 Tbsp olive oil

• 2 shallots, finely chopped

• 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

• 5 anchovies

• 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

• 2 Tbsp tomato paste

• 14 oz canned peeled tomatoes

• 100 - 150 g pasta

• Optional: 2 Tbsp chopped parsley

• Optional add-ins: capers, sardines, olives

1. Bring a small pot of salted water to boil. Cook pasta until just shy of al dente, about 7 minutes. Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining.

2. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a high-sided saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook until very soft and starting to brown, about 10 minutes.

3. Add anchovies, and cook for 3 minutes, or until they have melted into the oil. Mashing up a bit with a spoon can help speed this process up. Stir in the red pepper flakes and cook for another 30 seconds.

4. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, until it has darkened a bit in color.

5. Crush the tomatoes with your hands and add to the pan along with their juices. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes to reduce slightly and let the flavors develop.

6. Stir in 1/2 cup of pasta water to the pan and mix into the tomato sauce. Add the pasta and bring to a simmer, cooking for a few minutes until the pasta is done and the sauce has thickened. Add more water if needed to continue simmering until the pasta is done.

7. To finish, stir in the tuna (and/or any other add ins) and top with chopped parsley.

For the umami lovers among you, thank me later. The perfect bite, these cookies are moist and pillowy on the inside, while ever so slightly crisp on the outside. Don’t be scared off by the white chocolate, its melts into delicious creamy puddles, and in contrast with the saltiness of the miso, does not taste too sweet.

Recipe

Makes around 18 cookies

• 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour

• 1 tsp baking soda

• 1/2 tsp baking powder

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

• 3/4 cup brown sugar

• 1/4 cup granulated sugar

• 1/3 cup miso paste (I used white but have also used and loved yellow and red)

• 1 tsp vanilla extract

• 1 large egg

• 250 g white chocolate (use good quality, like Lindt. If it is chalky, you will notice, and you will be sad about it), chopped

1. Whisk together flour, baking soda, and baking powder. You will notice there is no salt included in this recipe, as the miso adds a good bit of saltiness. If you miss it, add 1/2 tsp in with the other dry ingredients.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, or with a hand mixer, cream the butter and both types of sugar. Mix at medium-high speed until fluffy and very light in color, about 8 minutes. Stop to scrape the sides with a rubber spatula as needed.

3. Add miso to the mixing bowl and beat for another minute. Then add egg and vanilla, and mix until combined.

4. Add 1/2 of the flour mixture and work in by hand with a large mixing spoon until just combined. Add in the other half and mix, stopping when there are still a few streaks of flour left.

5. Add the chopped chocolate to the bowl and mix in, again by hand, until it and the flour is fully incorporated.

6. Butter or line two baking trays with parchment paper. Spoon the dough out into balls of roughly 2 Tbsp each onto the trays, leaving at least 1.5 inches between them.

7. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. If you do not have room in your fridge for the baking trays, this can also be done before spooning out the dough, just switching the order of steps 6 and 7. (Note: At this point, I love to freeze the dough balls for up to two months, allowing me to bake them off in small batches as wanted. If you bake from frozen, just add a couple minutes to the baking time.)

8. Preheat the oven to 350 F/ 175 C. Bake for 13 minutes, or until the edges are crisp and the tops are lightly browned. The exact timing will depend on your oven, and when it comes to cookies a little under is better than over, so check in on them after about 10 minutes.

Welcome to the great games for the hungry and vitamin deficient!

I love a good kale salad. Kale excels where other leafy greens fail. Flavorful and robust, it will fill you up and will never, ever go soggy. This is especially true of cavolo nero (aka tuscan/lacinato kale, aka dinosaur kale), which has thicker leaves and a deeper flavor than curly kale. All three of these recipes are designed with cavolo nero in mind, but feel free to use curly kale if you want a less intensely fibrous experience (coward).

The three contenders before us were chosen to showcase the versatility of the kale salad. They each offer their own particular advantages within the competitive criteria of flavor, texture, and substantiality. Despite this acknowledged variability in their unique talents, I will play favorites, and encourage you to try them all and do the same.

Alison Roman’s

Ladies and gentlemen: our winner! Termed ‘raw and roasted’ in Alison Roman’s Dining In, it is satisfyingly savory, boosted in flavor and texture by the addition of crispy roasted kale chips. This salad is a particular stand out in the flavor category. The salty component is brought both in the seasoning and the liberal inclusion of parmesan. This, however, can be found in plenty of other iterations of the k-alad (including the next two in this post). No, what sets this one apart are the deep, roasty notes from the kale chips and toasted nuts. Against the sharp tang of lemon juice and the pungency of garlic, these make for an irresistibly more-ish combination. Texturally, the crunch from the nuts and kale chips are a great complement to the raw leaves. It is a very close second in this category, losing out to Gusto 101 more for the virtues of its competitor than its own shortcomings. The nuts also add to its substantiality, but other than the parmesan it is a bit lacking in protein to make the top spot.

Overall: Gold

• Flavor: Gold

• Texture: Silver

• Substantiality: Silver

Recipe: linked here

Serves 2

Gusto 101

Coming in second, this version of the lacinato kale salad served at Gusto 101 restaurant in Toronto comes from @katherinewants on instagram. While still anchored by the earthy dark leaf, it is the lightest and most refreshing of our contenders. Its lightness would make it a great side to many meals, but also leads it to last place in substantiality. Other than a generous sprinkle of cheese, it has few sources of fat or protein to power a growing girl such as myself through the day. Its silver medal in flavor is well-earned, however. Cavolo nero’s distinctive grassy, slightly metallic, taste is helped to shine by the tempering presence of tart lemon juice and sweet dried fruits. What makes this salad most worth making, though, is its texture. The thinly sliced ribbons of kale mound together and, softened after sitting in lemon juice, become also pillowy. This light chewiness is interrupted by the occasional crunch of a toasted pine nut, making for a delightful bite.

Overall: Silver

• Flavor: Silver

• Texture: Gold

• Substantiality: Bronze

Recipe:

Serves: 2

• 1 bunch cavolo nero

• juice of 1 lemon

• 2 Tbsp olive oil

• 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

• 1/2 cup dried black currants

• 1/2 cup pecorino, grated

• 1/2 cup parmesan, shaved

  • I was lazy and used 1 cup of grated parmesan in place of the two-cheese mix, as evidenced by the incriminating photo above

• 3 twists of freshly ground black pepper

1. Stem the kale, roll into cigars and slice as thinly as possible into ribbons

2. Whisk together lemon juice and olive oil in a large bowl. Toss in kale and let sit for 5 minutes

3. Add pine nuts, black currants and toss, then add pecorino and pepper. Finish by sprinkling parmesan on top

Tahini Caesar

Despite sitting in last place, this salad still has plenty to offer. In terms of flavor, its bright and umami tahini caesar dressing is delicious in its own right. In combination with cavolo nero, however, the earthiness of the tahini reinforces, rather than balances out, the bitterness of the leaf. Although, an easy solution to this would be the addition of honey to the dressing. The larger issue with this salad is the texture. Although the chickpeas add a great crunch, they are too large to lighten up the kale which, unlike in the previous two iterations, remains entirely raw and chopped rather than ribboned. As a result, the chewiness factor is considerable. On the flip side, the chickpeas, creamy dressing, and fiber-filled leaves make for a genuinely satisfying meal. In conclusion: slice the kale smaller, add honey, and this lunchtime hero could still save the day.

Overall: Bronze

• Flavor: Bronze

• Texture: Bronze

• Substantiality: Gold

Recipe

Serves 2

• 4 Tbsp olive oil

• 1 (15 oz ) can of chickpeas

• 1/2 tsp cumin

• 1/2 tsp paprika

• 1 bunch of cavolo nero

• 3 Tbsp tahini

• 1/4 cup greek yogurt

• juice of 2-3 lemons

• 1 garlic clove, grated

• 1/4 cup parmesan, grated

• 4-5 anchovies, minced

• 1.5 tsp mustard

• Salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400F/200C

2. Wash and drain chickpeas, then rub and lay out on a paper towel or clean dish towel to dry.

3. Transfer the chickpeas to a baking sheet and toss with 2 Tbsp of olive oil, paprika, cumin, salt and pepper.

4. Roast the chickpeas until crisp and browned, about 30 minutes. The timing can vary according to your oven, so check every ten minutes or so, shaking the pan a bit while you’re at it. Once done, remove from the oven and leave spread out on the tray to cool.

5. Stem the kale and chop into bite size pieces. Transfer to a bowl and massage with your hands for a couple minutes to soften the leaves.

6. To make the dressing, whisk together 2 Tbsp of olive oil, tahini, greek yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, anchovies, mustard, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Taste and adjust lemon juice, salt, and/or pepper.

7. Add the dressing to the bowl with the kale and toss, then mix in the chickpeas.

If are surprised by my sudden leap in photography skills and rustic kitchen interior, don’t be fooled. The bird above is Julius Robert’s ‘Epic Tarragon Chicken,’ pictured in his cookbook The Farm Table. This is the main dish of my Thanks/Friendsgiving menu this year, accompanied by cheesy mashed potatoes, green beans with mushrooms au poivre, and kale salad. Also on the table will be bread rolls and pie contributed by my extremely talented co-chefs. As said Friendsgiving is happening on Wednesday, this plan is being published ahead of time. This will hopefully be more helpful for your own planning purposes, but does mean that all this food remains as of now hypothetical, and therefore, un-photographable.

The Recipes

Cheesy Mashed Potatoes

The mashed potatoes recipe I will be using comes from David Tanis at NYT Cooking and is linked here. A similar recipe can be found here. Really, any mashed potatoes recipe could be used, the key being the addition of sharp cheddar cheese to bring a complementary tang to some of the other rich flavors of the meal.

Julius Robert’s ‘Epic Tarragon Chicken’

I am opting for chicken over turkey because I have never roasted a turkey before and want to protect my inner peace, haters say what they will. This roast chicken, cloaked in a creamy mustard-tarragon sauce, brings the appropriate sense of occasion, not to mention being really, really delicious. The recipe is linked here.

Kale Salad

This Kale Salad is deceptively simple. It was shown to me by my Aunt Carrie one Christmas and has been a fixation every holiday season since. It has very few ingredients, but manages to balance salt, acid, sugar and fat perfectly, providing a light and zingy foil to many a rich and meaty main.

Ingredients (Serves 6)

• 2 bunches of kale

• 1 cup of pomegranate seeds (from 1 pomegranate)

• 1 cup pecans

• 1 Tbsp butter

• 3 Tbsp Honey

• Juice of 1 lemon

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• Salt

1. Wash kale, then stem and chop into bite size pieces. Add to a large bowl and massage for a minute or two until softened and slightly darkened.

2. Make the dressing: in a small bowl mix the lemon juice, olive oil, a pinch of salt and 1 Tbsp of honey. Taste and adjust. The balance of flavors in this dressing is key, so keep tweaking until you are happy with it.

3. To candy the pecans, melt the butter in a pan over medium heat. Add 2 Tbsp honey and stir until thoroughly combined. Once the honey has started to bubble, add the pecans with a pinch of salt, and stir to coat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the nuts are browned and smell toasted, about 5 minutes.

4. To serve, toss the kale in the dressing, then mix in the candied pecans and pomegranate seeds.

Greens Beans with Mushrooms au Poivre

These greens beans, a sort of modernized version of a green bean casserole, are heavily inspired by Katie (@babytamagooo on instagram). Her tantilizing take on the dish did not include a recipe, however, so I have pieced together the following method. There are a few constituent parts, but with some prep, none need be approached with fear.

Ingredients (Serves 6)

• 2 leeks

• 1 cup + 3 Tbsp olive oil

• 2 lbs green beans

• 6 cloves garlic, minced

• Juice of 1 lemon

• 1.5 Tbsp black peppercorns

• 3 Tbsp butter

• 1 lb cremini or chestnut mushrooms, sliced

• 2 shallots, minced

• 6 thyme sprigs

• 3/4 cup heavy cream

• 1/2 cup chicken stock

1. To make the crispy leeks, trim off the bulb and dark green top. Quarter the remaining white and light green section and slice into thin slivers, less than 1/8 inch thick

2. In a skillet or pan with sides that at are least 1.5 inches high, heat the cup of olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the slivered leeks in batches so that they lay in a single layer and fry until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Careful! This will happen quickly. Drain and transfer to a paper-towel lined plate once done.

3. To blanch the green beans, put a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Wash and trim and the beans and then add to the boiling water. Cook for about 3 minutes, until tender and bright green, then remove to a colander, run under cold water, and drain.

4. Heat 2 Tbsp of olive oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add 4 cloves minced garlic and fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the green beans and sautée for a couple minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside on a platter, squeeze over with lemon juice and sprinkle with a pinch of salt.

5. To prepare the cracked pepper, place peppercorns in a sealable plastic bag over a cutting board. Using a mallet or rolling pin, gently crush the peppercorns until coarsely broken. This can also be done using a mortar and pestle.

6. To make the mushrooms au poivre, melt 3 Tbsp of butter and 1 Tbsp oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and shallot to the pan and cook for another few minutes, until the alliums are translucent and just starting to brown. Add the cracked pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the cream, chicken broth, and thyme leaves, making sure to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom. Bring to a simmer and cook until thickened, 3 - 5 minutes.

7. To serve, spoon the mushrooms over the plated green beans and top with the crispy leeks.

The Groceries

This list provides a near complete account of everything needed to make these four recipes, leaving out only a few staple ingredients (eg. olive oil, honey, salt and pepper). Whether or not you follow this menu, I would recommend trying out this spreadsheet method to sum up repeated ingredients over recipes – just make sure your units are consistent.

The Plan

The upper table lists out the dishes and their particular equipment requirements. Keeping track of your oven’s commitments is especially helpful to prevent any traffic jams or disagreements in temperature. The pie is marked with an asterisk because it is going to be made by a friend, but will require some time in the oven alongside the chicken. Depending on your schedule, however, pies are great candidates for making ahead and re-heating at the moment of need.

The preparation schedule is spread out over three days. The exact hourly allocations reflect my class schedule, not any universal normative principles.

The first day is used for shopping and prepping, all of which could be done a day or two earlier if more convenient. The prepping of the kale, mushrooms and pomegranate basically denotes the washing, stemming, chopping, and seeding required to get them ready to use on the Day Of (Wednesday in my case). Once prepped, they can be stored in the fridge until use.

I am going to use the second day mainly to make the mashed potatoes, which can be cooled and kept in the fridge for up to three days. Then, they just need to be warmed up before serving on the Day Of. I will also use that evening to spatchcock the chicken, season with salt and pepper, and leave to dry out in the fridge overnight. Finally, pre-mincing the garlic and shallot for the green beans au poivre makes for extra easy assembly the next day.

Wednesday, the Day Of, is a bit crammed on account of an inconveniently scheduled seminar. I would ideally make the salad a few hours earlier and store in the fridge until serving, although if you were really pressed for time, this could also be done the day before.

Good luck and happy feasting!

Dal is a South Asian dish made from cooked legumes, often lentils. This is not a dal. Spoiler: it is a carrot soup. But it is a carrot soup which incorporates ginger and other flavors often found in dal including, most deliciously, a spiced butter topping similar to tadka which I had once two years ago and have thought about 1-3 times per week since.

You could certainly make lentil dal instead, but I sometimes find the texture of lentils to be too grainy. Enter: the silky smoothness and subtle sweetness of pureed carrots, and an all-time favorite soup is born.

Two notes on the tadka, which essentially refers to liquid fat infused over heat with whole spices and other aromatics.

First, for these purposes it would ideally be done using ghee, which has a higher smoking point than butter and so can be used to crisp up garlic or shallots to add on top. I used butter as it is what I had on hand, and on flavor principle did not want to sub for oil. If you do use ghee, however, know that you are the best among us and can get extra fancy with your tadka in ways which I will detail next.

Second, the spices you use are really up to you, but they should predominantly be in whole form so as not to burn. Options include: cumin seeds, mustard seeds, fennel seeds, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, curry leaves, bay leaves, or dried chilies. The next component to be added in are aromatics, such as finely chopped garlic, onion, shallots, or fresh ginger, which will crisp in ghee or oil, but are harder to incorporate if using butter without burning the fats. Finally, at the end, ground spices such as turmeric, curry powder, garam masala, cinnamon, cumin, or asafoetida are added. Chili flakes (as opposed to whole chilis) would also be added at this point. The spices listed in the recipe reflect what I, with a limited spice cabinet, used, but any combination will work added to the pan in the order of 1) whole spices, 2) finely chopped aromatics, and 3) ground spices.

Recipe

Serves: 4

• 2 Tbsp olive oil

• Salt and pepper

• 1 yellow onion, chopped

• 6 garlic cloves, chopped

• 2 lb carrot, peeled and chopped

• An approximately 2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

• 6 cups of vegetable stock

• 2 Tbsp curry powder

• 1 tsp fennel seeds

• 1 tsp cumin seeds

• 1/2 tsp red chili flakes

• 2 Tbsp butter or ghee

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the alliums are soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in 1 Tbsp curry powder and cook for 2 minutes longer.

2. Add carrots and ginger and stir to coat. Add the broth and bring to a boil.

3. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, until carrots are tender. Turn off the heat and let cool, then transfer to a blender or use an immersion blender to puree, adding a bit more broth or water if needed to thin out the consistency. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

4. To make the tadka, melt the butter or ghee in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the whole spices, in my case the cumin and fennel seeds and toast until fragrant, about 1 minute. (If you are using ghee or oil this would be the point to add the garlic/onion/shallots/ginger and fry until crispy). Next, add the ground spices, in my case the remaining tablespoon of curry powder, and chili flakes and cook for another 30 seconds.

5. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle over with a swirl of tadka.

This salad has everything.

Crunchy. Salty. Tangy. Sweet. Texture? Immaculate. Flavor? Abundant.

Figs are the stars of this virtuoso mix. We are just coming off the final fig harvest, so the plump, ruby beauties can still be found in supermarkets (or they should be, unless you live in the UK which practices spartan grocery stocking techniques, in which case they will need to be delivered via Uber Eats for an embarrassing amount of money). The quality of figs you use will have an outsized impact on your eating experience, so try to find the ripest you can, and wait until soft if need be to maximize their sweetness.

There are only a few other ingredients. Firstly, crispy prosciutto, which makes for an unbeatable salty-sweet combination with the figs. Secondly, arugula, which I would not recommend swapping for another leafy green as its peppery flavor adds an important kick. Thirdly, a soft blue cheese, which could could maybe could be swapped for goat cheese, but that would sacrifice some rich creaminess and funky flavor – both of which constituent factors of the general ‘having it all-ness.’ Finally, balsamic vinaigrette, or more accurately, the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and salt thereof. A different vinegar could be used, but balsamic nicely mirrors the deep fruity flavor of the figs.

Recipe

Serves 3 – 4  

• 8 fresh figs

• 6 – 8 slices of prosciutto

• 6 oz arugula (1 small bag)

• 120 g creamy blue cheese

• 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

• 3 Tbsp olive oil

• Salt

1. Preheat the oven to 375 F/190 C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lay out the prosciutto in a single layer, making sure there is no overlap. Crisp the prosciutto in the oven for about 10 minutes, watching to make sure they don’t burn. When they’re done the fat will have turned a deep golden brown and the meat will be a dark, bricky red. Remove from the oven and let cool.

2. Trim off the stems of the figs and slice into quarters, lengthwise.

3. Once cool, crumble the prosciutto. If crispy enough, it should easily break into shards.

4. In a large bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and salt.

5. Add the arugula, sliced figs, and crumbled prosciutto to the bowl. Scatter over with little bits of blue cheese (sorry, this is a messy job best done by hand) and toss with the vinaigrette.

Welcome to our autumnal reality. Can I interest you in a pork chop?

The combination of pork and apple is an all-time classic. Sweet against savory, sharp against meaty, you can’t lose. While this maxim applies to many mediums, choosing a pork chop makes for an easy, affordable dinner.

Above is pictured Ali Slagle’s Skillet Pork Chops and Apples with Miso Caramel from NYT Cooking. The chops are seared in a pan, then set aside to rest while sliced apples are browned and then mixed with a simple miso-vinegar-brown sugar caramel. The final combination has a great hit of acidity to balance the rich and sweet notes, while also offering some umami from the miso. If this recipe is inaccessible to you, a similar version is linked here, green beans optional. The recipe does not include apple, but just slice 0.5-1 apples per chop, sauté in a bit of olive oil for a few minutes on each side to brown, then add in the remaining sauce to coat and reduce/simmer a bit until thickened.

My absolute favorite way of preparing this combination, though, comes from Melissa Clark’s cookbook Dinner, Changing the Game. Her Pork Scallopini, With Sage, Black Pepper, And Apples delivers the juiciest, most delicious pork chops, perfectly flavored with garlic and plenty of sage.

The key to success in executing either version is to brown the pork chops well in the pan. The above is not, in all honestly, the ideal example of this because I forgot to dry the pork chops with a paper towel before seasoning with salt and pepper and adding to the pan. For every day a new lesson learnt.

On the side of the plate are some quick-cooked garlic and lemon green beans. To make (for 2 servings of green beans):

1. Heat 1 Tbsp of olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot, nearly smoking

2. Mince 1—2 cloves of garlic and add to the pan, stirring immediately to prevent burning

3. Just after adding garlic, add the green beans

4. Sauté for 5 minutes, until the beans are bright green and browned in places

5. Plate and immediately squeeze over with lemon juice, a sprinkle of salt, and (optionally) red chili flakes

Full disclosure, I made these tacos nearly a month ago. In the late summer moment, lobster and mango were a natural choice, but now seem a bit anachronistic to our autumnal actuality. Nevertheless, better late than never, and still definitely worth a make.

I have been making iterations of these tacos for years, in a not entirely successful attempt to recreate the version I had at the now closed Lineage restaurant in Brookline, Massachusetts. This recipe, which uses store bought corn tortillas and sour cream for the avocado base, is an easier, though still delicious version. If you want to up the ante, extra efforts such as making the tortillas yourself with masa harina, or using more complex avocado mousse such as the one found here would not go unrewarded.

Recipe

Serves 4

• 4-6 lobster tails, 5-8 oz each

• 1 avocado

• 1/2 cup sour cream

• 3+ limes

• 2 mangoes, diced

• 1/4 cup thinly diced red onion

• 1/4 cup minced cilantro

• 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced

• Salt

• Corn tortillas

1. Cook the lobster tails. I steamed mine, but they can also be boiled or baked. To steam, bring 1 inch of water to boil in a large pot or saucepan. Place the steamer basket/rack over the boiling water, making sure that it does not quite touch the water. Place the lobster tails in the basket and cover the pot with a lid. Steam for 8 minutes, adjusting by a minute or two depending on the size of your tails. The shells should turn bright red and the flesh should be firm, white, and opaque. Once cooked, remove tails and set aside to cool.

2. Make the avocado crema. Halve the avocados and remove the pits. With a large spoon, scoop the avocado flesh into a food processor or blender. Add in the sour cream, the juice of two limes, and a large pinch of salt. Blend until smooth. Taste and add more lime juice and salt as desired. Transfer to the fridge until ready to use.

3. Make the mango salsa. In a medium bowl, mix together the diced mango, red onion, cilantro, and jalapeño with the juice of the remaining lime and a pinch of salt. Transfer to the fridge until ready to use.

4. Chop the lobster. With a sharp knife, cut a straight line down the white underside of each tail. It’s fine if you cut the meat as well as the shell – it takes some muscle, so in all likelihood you will. Pry open the shell and remove the tail meat. Chop into bite-size chunks and set aside for assembly.

5. Toast the tortillas (optional but recommended, especially if using store-bought tortillas). You want them to be a little crisp, but not as dry as a hard shell. This can be done on a sheet pan in the oven for 5-8 minutes at 400 F, or better yet, over a gas stove flame for a slight char.

6. Assemble! Spread a thick layer of avocado crema over each tortilla, add a spoonful of mango salsa, and top with the lobster chunks.

One would be hard pressed to find a companion as loyal, reliable and non-perishable as canned tuna. An unsung hero, canned tuna will always be there for you, to provide a little extra protein when times get tough. Too often, however, it is mistreated, drowned in mayonnaise, or else left to suffer, unseasoned and without opportunity to fulfill its potential.

With this sandwich, we say enough. Tuna deserves better. Tuna deserves to be seasoned with harissa and mixed with olives, green onion and parsley. Tuna deserves to be zippy, flavorful and fun.

Recipe

Serves 1 large or 2 medium sandwiches (medium pictured above, under potentially too much arugula)

• Sourdough or other crusty bread

• 2 Tbsp olives

• 1 green onions, green and white parts

• 2 Tbsp parsley

• 1 can of tuna

• 2 Tbsp mayonnaise

• 1 Tbsp harissa (powder or paste)

• juice of 1/2 a lemon

• pinch of salt

• Optional add-ins: finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes, capers

1. Toast however many slices of crusty bread you are using

2. Finely chop the olives, green onions, parsley and any add-ins

3. In a large bowl, mix together chopped components with all other ingredients

4. Assemble toasted bread and tuna mixture into a sandwich, and enjoy!

Youth is a funny thing. Fleeting, she slips from your fingertips. There was a time when I had never seen a W2 form. Now, I have all the ingredients for homemade granola lying around in my kitchen cupboard.

Actually, if that is adulthood, I will happily accept because this granola is amazing. Toasted nuts bring a savory crunch, while raisins bring a sweet bit of chew. The real flavor comes from the peanut butter-maple syrup-cinnamon-oil mixture which binds the raw ingredients and, in its golden perfection, transforms them from birdfeed to the kind of granola that Nancy Meyer characters and other grown up ladies sprinkle on their yogurt while wearing a shawl and thinking profound thoughts.

Recipe

Makes about 8 cups

• 3 cups oats

• 2 cups nuts. Choose any mixture you like, especially almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts and brazil nuts.

• 3/4 tsp salt

• 1 Tbsp cinnamon

• 1/3 cup maple syrup

• 1/3 cup oil, olive or coconut (melted if the latter)

• 1 tsp vanilla

• 1/2 cup peanut or almond butter

• 3/4 cup raisins

• 1/2 cup pumpkin seeds

• 1/2 cup coconut flakes

1. Preheat the oven to 325 F/165 C

2. Toast your nuts in a pan over a low flame or on a sheet tray in the oven (at 325 F/165 C). This should take 5-8 minutes but you will want to watch closely as nuts burn very easily and irrevocably. You will know they are done when they have deepened in color, smell toasty, and have started to give off some of their oils.

3. Chop nuts to preference

4. Mix chopped nuts and oats in a large bowl

5. Stir together the salt, cinnamon, maple syrup, oil, vanilla and peanut butter

6. Pour peanut butter mixture over oats and nuts and stir to combine

7. Spread in a thin, even layer over a baking sheet. You can press down on the granola with a back of a spoon, which allegedly is supposed to help it clump

8. Bake for 20 minutes

9. Remove and stir in the raisins and pumpkin seeds. These are added later to prevent burning. If your coconut flakes are raw, add these now. If they are pre-toasted, reserve them until the end. Once combined, spread the granola back out into an even layer.

10. Return the sheet to the oven and bake for another ten minutes

11. Remove and top with coconut flakes, if reserved. Let cool and then transfer into an air tight container. Bonus grown up points if this is a mason jar.

This week’s plate came about because I wanted to make Alison Roman’s eggplant pasta, as well as make the most of the summer zucchini supply. Somehow, eggplant and zucchini felt right together. They are both colorful, gourd-ish, and hefty enough to provide some vegetarian marrow to a dish. They are also both texturally controversial, an aversion I relate to but hope this meal plan might help you to overcome. Eggplant and I have not always had the easiest relationship, but thanks to Alison, we’re now closer than ever.

A note on ingredients. This week includes some embellishments that could push up the price point slightly. Pine nuts and saffron, I am looking directly at you. These are somewhat difficult to substitute effectively, but feel free to leave them out. If you were to keep one, however, the pine nuts add some great texture and toasty flavor.

The Recipes

Zucchini Sticky Rice

This recipe comes from (@alexandradudley on instagram), a frequent and skillful user of zucchini, linked here on her substack.

Eggplant Pasta

Another Alison Roman classic in-the-making. The recipe is linked here, or in video form here.

Notes: In critical terms, no notes. Literally, however, a few: 1) I used oregano and parsley in my herb mix, but basil would do well in overlap with the zucchini sticky rice, 2) I used tomato paste but Alison calls alternatively for gochujang or harissa, if you have/would rather that instead, 3) Alison calls for (and I used) cherry/sungold tomatoes, but you could also use a chopped up plum/other larger tomato if you have extra from the ratatouille galette, 4) melting some anchovies into the breadcrumbs could be a fun and funky little addition.

Ratatouille Galette

This recipe comes from Julius Robert’s cookbook The Farm Table, which I very highly recommend. It follows along similar lines to his asparagus and ricotta tart, an adapted version of which I posted in May.

This rendition uses galette or pie dough instead of rough puff pastry, and adds a caramelized onion layer between the ricotta base and vegetable topping, made up of alternated slices of eggplant, tomato, and zucchini. A similar online recipe from Baking Sense is linked here. If using, just remember to add your lemon-zest ricotta layer first, in place of the breadcrumbs.

Zucchini Agrodolce

Julius, in his everlasting wisdom, features twice in this meal plan. His “Courgette agrodulce” recipe features on his instagram (@juliusroberts), and is linked here.

Notes: Agrodolce is an Italian vegetable dish meaning “sour” and “sweet.” Lemon and vinegar make this version bright and tangy, while raisins and caramelized onion add a natural sweetness. Lots of olive oil and a creamy cheese like burrata, stracciatella, ricotta or chèvre in serving help to round it out. The result is a special, satisfying dish you will not quickly forget.

I like to think of this as this dish as the summer equivalent to the lobster risotto I make most years for Christmas dinner. Still rich and satisfying, it is a little more casual, and decidedly more affordable. Using orzo instead of risotto also technically makes this a seafood pasta, which is, by the laws of nature, always delicious. This recipe is probably the most involved that I have posted thus far, but so well worth the effort.

This recipe is inspired by the very talented Hailee Catalano’s Creamy Crab and Tomato Orzotto (@haileecatalano instagram). This version amplifies the tomato and crab flavors by adding fresh cherry tomatoes and seafood stock. I included the tomatoes in two ways: 1) blending them and using the puree in the orzo’s cooking liquid, and 2) roasting them and adding them on top. Your tastebuds will be best served by doing both, but either one is fine if you’re conserving energy.

Seafood or fish stock is generally shelved next to the chicken and vegetable options in the grocery store, but in case you can’t find it, clam juice is a good substitute. Clam juice can usually be found (by the few who try to find it) in the same section as canned tuna and sardines. On the topic of canned seafood, a well sized grocery store should have a few options for lump crab meat. In descending order of price, these are: fresh from the fishmonger’s counter, fresh-ish from the section of pre-packaged seafood often just in front of the fishmonger, and canned. Unsurprisingly, I went with the final option. And I still had a great result, so choose freely and without fear.

Recipe

Serves 4

Time: 45 minutes

• 1 pint of cherry tomatoes, washed

• Olive oil

• Salt and pepper

• 3 Tbsp butter

• 3 cloves of garlic

• 3 shallots

• 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes (optional)

• 2 Tbsp tomato paste

• 250g/8oz orzo

• ½ cup dry white wine

• 3 cups seafood or fish stock, or clam juice

• 2 Tbsp heavy cream

• 8 oz lump crab meat, ideally jumbo

1. Add half of the cherry tomatoes to a blender with 1 cup of water. Blitz until smooth and set aside. Note: There will still be little flecks of tomato skin. If this bothers you, pass the puree through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl.

2. Halve the remaining cherry tomatoes. To cook, you can either: 1) roast on a baking sheet at 200C/400F for 15-20 minutes or 2) sauté in a pan until blistered. I opted for the first option, as it allowed me to continue on with the rest of the recipe while the tomatoes were in the oven. In either case, drizzle the tomatoes with a little olive and sprinkle with salt and pepper before cooking.

3. Mince the shallots and garlic.

4. In a large pan that is at least 2 inches deep (think cast iron skillet or dutch oven) melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until translucent, about 4 minutes.

5. Stir in the red pepper flakes and tomato paste. Cook for 2-3 minutes, until the tomato paste has deepened in color to a red-brick brown.

6. Add the orzo, stirring to coat.

7. Pour in the white wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to bring up any browned bits. Simmer for a couple of minutes until most of the wine has evaporated.

8. Add the tomato puree and 1 cup of stock. Stir to combine and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed.

9. Repeat with another cup of stock. Once this cup is absorbed, taste to see if the orzo is al dente. If it is still hard, add the last cup of stock, again stirring until it is mostly cooked off. Note: if the pasta is still not the desired texture after the third cup of stock, you can add a bit of water to continue cooking.

10. The process of incremental liquid addition (steps 8 and 9) should take about 15-20 minutes. Do not turn up the heat past a simmer – you want to cook the orzo gradually to allow it to absorb the stock. Moreso than any uniform time or liquid allowance you should be led by your end goal: al dente orzo in a thickened, glossy sauce. You will know when you have it where you want it.

11. When you do in fact, have it where you want it, cut the heat and have a taste. Add salt and pepper accordingly. Note: the seasoning step is saved until nearly last to prevent over-salting. Depending on the salinity of your butter and stock you may want to add a good pinch of salt, or none at all.

12. Stir in the cream and crab, saving a handful to sprinkle on top.

13. Garnish with the reserved crab and roasted tomatoes.

14. Send me pics!

The version of myself whom this meal plan would work best for is not the current version of myself. Namely, I do not live in Virginia where, in the late summer, farm stands selling freshly picked corn litter the shoulder of every major highway. Corn has never tasted so sweet, nor boasted such succulent crunch, as when bought off the side of Route 11.

Life requires sacrifices, however, and the only corn I immediately have access to is individually packaged and pre-cut. Still, when summer, corn. If you can get your hands on the good stuff, this one’s for you. Happy shucking.

This meal plan is really divided between two stars, the other, more centrally located, actor being cherry tomatoes. These are delicious basically anywhere this time of year, and provide an essential acidity to some of the richer flavors on this week’s plate.

In terms of the meals, while the halloumi-corn-tomato mix played very nicely as a portable lunch, the shrimp scampi and crab orzo were outstanding. Speaking on the orzo in particular – run, don’t walk. Well, run once I post the recipe, but the inspiration is posted below, which will take you most of the way there.

The Recipes

Summer Shrimp Scampi

Ali Slagle, NYT Cooking*: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1021184-summer-shrimp-scampi-with-tomatoes-and-corn

Notes: Do not skip out on the browning of the tomatoes or the corn. This is where a highly delicious flavor develops that will carry through in the butter-wine sauce. Also, it only takes 15 minutes!!!

*Some of you may be getting tired of/running out of free recipes on NYT Cooking. Don’t worry, the next plan of the week mixes it up.

Crab and Tomato Orzo

Inspiration on this one comes from Hailee Catalano, who is more than worth a follow on instagram @haileecatalano. Her recipe can be found here: https://cafehailee.com/recipes/creamy-crab-and-tomato-orzotto/. I will be posting my version soon, but if you want to make it ahead of time, just be sure to adjust to Hailee’s ingredients.

Notes: wow wow wow so good

Halloumi with Corn and Tomatoes

Melissa Clark, NYT Cooking: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1022461-halloumi-with-corn-cherry-tomatoes-and-basil

Notes: I used ground cumin because I did not have seeds and cooked the red onion along with the corn and tomatoes for co-working purposes.